How to Make Your Own Belly Dance Costume

Part Five: Embellishing the Bras so They Coordinate

by  Janie “Jenee” Midgley

This article first appeared in the June 2006 issue of Jareeda magazine.  
It is part of a series of Costuming articles I am writing, as on of their staff writers

Tribal Fusion Bra
 

The bra was covered with the same Navy Blue cotton fabric as the belt.  The procedure was the same as described and shown last time for the Gold Cabaret Bra.  So now we will start layering the embellishments on the bra base.
First Layer Obliviously you would not put 30" fringe on the bra, because if you did you couldn't see the belt.  So instead I started with the 8" Royal Blue fringe, that was used on the belt.  I measured my trim (fourth layer trim) and marked the bra with pins for the starting point for the first layer of fringe.  While I did follow the line of the bra, I also gave the line a slight V.  The V shape is a very flattering line for a woman's body.  Hand sew the fringe in place.


 
Second Layer is 3" Kelly Green fringe which is applied right above the blue fringe as you did with the belt.  Remember if you put the top edge of the fringe right above, but flat on the form, there will be less bulk.  The fringe is hand sewn, once again, following the line of the first layer.
Third Layer is Honey Beige Tassel Fringe type trim.  This fringe is used not only to match the belt, but as before to add movement and the color.  Sew it right on top of the green fringe.
Fourth Layer is the Shisha Mirror and Embroidery Trim.  Sew this on top of the top edge of the tassel trim, in effect hiding all the other top edges. It should also come right to the top edge of the bra. If a little of the base fabric shows above the trim, it will blend in with the trim background, so don't worry. Hand sew this in place top and bottom, so it lays flat.


 
Fifth Layer is a Blue & Gold Embroidered Trim, that was sewn to the top edge of the belt.  To keep the design coordinated, I choose to sew it to the bra straps.  It covered nicely and added even more color to the bra.  But if you choose to leave the straps plain with just the base fabric that would be okay too — your choice.



You are done!  Well except for putting on the hooks and lining it.  Those finishing touches will be handled in the next installment.
 
Cabaret Bra
 
To create the 'together' or coordinated look, appliqués for the bra should be a smaller version of those used on the belt.  Also the texturing or beaded fringe should reflect the look of the belt.  They should match, not just have the same color beads.
First Layer is the appliqués.  I choose appliqués that were smaller versions of the ones on the belt and placed them in a similar V design.  Sew them in place using matching thread, sew all the way through the bra so they are very secure.  Make them secure, but do not over tighten the threads.  Sewing too tight will shrink the size of the bra.


 
Second Layer is the pre beaded fringe. I used the same 8" Gold high quality fringe.  Do not skimp on quality or your beads.  Even though the beads on the bra are not subjected to the same centrifugal force of your hip movements, they will still be subjected to a lot of movement.  I sewed the long fringe starting just inside the underwire of the cup and slanted it up toward the strap to create the V line.  I also sewed it in such a way as to allow part of the appliqué to over lap the fringe for interest.  Fringe put on in this style gives some coverage like a belly drape, but also allows the audience to better see stomach movements.  Sew single row Gold Sequin Trim on top of the fringe edge to hide the ugly top edge.


 
Third Layer is extra beading and handmade fringe. I did a rope in silver around the top of the appliqué and red beaded fringe with red paillettes to match the belt.


You can see the difference the added layer of hand beaded fringe makes


Your bra is basically finished, except for lining and adding hooks and eyes for closure.  These will be covered in the next installment of this series.

ATS Bra

The bra was covered with the same Navy Blue cotton fabric as the belt.  The procedure was the same as described and shown last time for the Gold Cabaret Bra.  So now we will start layering the embellishments on the bra base.
First Layer is adding the same unique wide trim that was used as an embellishment on the top of the belt. I sewed the trim to the top edge of the bra, while leaving the remainder on each side so it can be tacked to the sides for coverage and to continue the line.



I am out of time for my deadline and pondering the next layer for the bra.  Large tassels like on the belt would look ridiculous and shell flowers, I believe, would make it look tacky. It needs more pizzazz.  I will complete the embellishments of this bra in the next installment of this series.