In the last issue we left off with the first layer of the embellishing of the ATS bra and I promised I would complete the embellishing for this issue.  So here we go.

First Layer  is adding the same unique wide trim that was used as an embellishment on the top of the belt.  I sewed the trim to the top edge of the bra, while leaving the remainder on each side so it can be tacked to the sides for coverage and to continue the line. (Shown in last issue)

Second Layer Embellishing with Cowry shells to keep the Tribal look.  I used the shells drilled with 2 holes, because they can be sewn more securely.  But be careful not to pull your thread too tight or you will shrink your bra cup.  I used doubled beading thread for strength and the longer beading needle is easier to thread through the shell holes.  I made half and 1/3 flower designs to match the flowers on the tassel belt.


Third Layer   To add even more pizzazz and a little movement to accent your moves, I added two strings of beads to each design.  I made the strings/fringes out of unfinished wood beads and primary colored E size beads to continue the Tribal feel.


You are done now and ready for lining and fasteners.

I added similar designs to the top part of the Tassel Belt to make the set look more matched.

    Lining the belts is pretty basic.  You line them to protect the decorations and to keep the stitches from desegregating from body sweat.  You also line to protect your skin from the stitches, especially if you have decided to glue your stitches to hold the knots.  I use T-shit material or Cotton Flannel to line bras and belts, because they absorb sweat and feel soft against your skin.  All linings are whip or running stitched in for ease of removal.  Then when the lining starts to get Icky, you just pull it out and reline it.
    The ATS Tassel Belt really needs no lining and usually isn’t.  The Tribal Fusion Belt is just rectangle that is turned under and whip stitched in place.  The Cabaret Belt takes a little more to cut and turn under, because of the shape.


    The real trick is lining the bra cups.  For these directions I will once again only talk about the Cabaret Bra, since they are all done the same way and the photos are easier to see with the light color.

Step One  Using a glue made for use with water, like “Okay to Wash It” glue the knots of the embellishment inside the cup.  This will prevent the knots from becoming undone and make your bra last longer.  Let dry.  The glue may still be tacky to the touch when dry, which is another reason to line the cup.


Step Two  Cut a small rectangular piece of lining fabric to line the center part.  Fold under and sew in place leaving the extra to go into the cups.  When you line cups this will be under the cup lining.


Step Three  Cut a square of lining fabric, for this one I used Cotton Flannel, just as you did to cover the bra cup.  Pin the four corners of the point just as you did on the outside and work your pinning to the edges of the cup.  Now trim the fabric so you have between a half inch to a quarter of an inch to turn under (this is a comfort thing, some people feel more comfortable with more fabric in case of mistakes).  Turn under and pin in place.  You may need to dart the fullness like you did on top or you may be able to just ease the fullness.  Now whip stitch the fabric into place.  The stitches just need to hold it in place, so big stitches just make it easier to pull out when needed.  Your Done!

    I use Coat Hooks and Eyes.  They are made to hold a heavy coat closed so they can certainly hold a costume together.  They are also slightly curved so the do not come undone easily.  I do not use pant hooks, I have seen too many of them slide loose.

 
    For belts, Tribal Fusion and Cabaret, I place four hooks on the corners of the front piece.  Sew them inside just enough to be hidden.  Then I measure where to put the eyes so the belt is tight enough and sew the eyes in place.  For tightness I use the ’suck it in’ method:  You suck in a deep breath pulling in your stomach when you do, now measure. This will make it tight enough so it will not fall off while dancing.
    For the bra I use two hooks and eyes so the fastened area stays flatter, plus you have back-up if one comes loose.  Once again, remember to set the hooks in enough to be hidden from view.  You can also embellish this area if you want to.

You are done now and ready to go dancing!!  One word of caution:  Always practice in your costume before performing in public.  Just to make sure everything is sewn down and the fasteners are tight enough.