Volume 3, Issue 4

 Modesty while being dramatic can be achieved by covering the body fully with a sheer fabric, as seen above.  The outfit above consists of a black beledi dress with long bell shaped sleeves and a V neckline, with slits on the side for easy movement.  On our Mannequin the dress hits at about the knee, which is okay, but she is also 6 feet tall.  On a shorter dancer the dress would probably hit mid calf to ankle length which would be even better.  Note in the close-up photo that the sleeve is only attached at the shoulder.  This gives you greater range of arm movement without pulling up the dress.  What would you wear under the dress?  A plain or fancy black bra would be perfect.

The outfit is completed with matching black sheer harem pants, as seen in the middle photo.  And the photo on the left shows the complete outfit.  I would recommend wearing black panties under the harem pants.

Now all this outfit needs is a hip sash or belt and a veil.  I would recommend a brightly colored sash to really make your hip movements pop.  If you veil is also of the same accent color you will have tied the whole outfit together.  And of course some rhinestones from Veils by Bill would just give the outfit that finishing touch!

A side note:  This  is a one of kind Ensemble, because it was the last of the fabric.  I do make Beledi dresses for sale on a regular basis.   Beledi dresses cost $85.00 undecorated.  Editor's Note:  The Ensemble is now sold.

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    My favorite line to use when discussing costumes is “You must invest time or money.”  What does this mean?  If you have no time to make a costume, then you have to invest money to buy one already made or have one made.  If you are short on money, then you must invest your time to make a costume.  Now I can hear some of you saying, “but I can’t sew”.  The sewing needed to make a costume is really basic, all you have to do is apply yourself.  Now if the truth is that you don’t want to sew, then you are back to investing money to buy a costume.
    The bonus to making your own costume is that you have a truly unique costume.  It will be made for you and to suit your style of dance.  A true one of a kind.  The bonus to those of us who make costumes for a living is once you have made a costume yourself you will appreciate the work we do much more.  Truly, most of my regular Custom Costuming clients have all made their own costumes, but would rather pay me to do it.
    This will be a series of articles that will take you step by step through the making of 3 costumes: Cabaret (American Night Club), American Tribal Style (ATS), and Tribal Fusion.  I chose these three, because they are the most popular styles of Belly Dance at this time.  And these are the most diverse.  I do not intend to discount Gypsy Fantasy, Spanish Fusion, Bollywood, or any other style.  I simply do not want to be making 10 different costumes for these articles.  So after much thought I chose these three.  As you make your costume along with me, feel free to style it which ever way you want.  
    Yes, I will be making these pieces right along with you.  Step by step just as you are doing them.  Think of these articles as a correspondence course, the articles are your class and the making of your costume is your homework.  So lets get started!!
    We will be starting with the costume belt, since all costume styles have a belt.  Even the drop dead gorgeous dance gowns have a belt, it is simply attached to the gown in the form of decoration.  Why start with the belt?  The hips drive our lovely dance.


Step One: Get your measurements.  This can be done by using A) a tape measure and having a friend measure you, while you stand straight and tuck in your tummy.  Measure the width where you would normally wear your hip belt.  If you do not want a friend or significant other to know your exact hip measurement, you can use B) a self measuring tape.  The one I found at the Fabric Store was called an “Easy Check”.  Be sure to also measure the distance from one hip bone to the other in front.  So you will have two measurements:  exact hip measurement and hip bone to hip bone measurement.
     C) The third way to measure can be quite fun if done in groups.  Use Duct Tape and wrap your hips tightly.  Of course you put on an old leotard or T-shirt and apply the tape over that so it doesn't’t stick to your skin.  It is best if someone else does it to you, so you can once again stand up straight and suck in your stomach.  It can also be self applied.  Make sure you wrap tightly.  See the photos for how I do it.  After you are wrapped up, mark one hip bone on the wrap with a black marker and cut the wrap off cutting down from the other hip bone.

   
*** The Duct Tape method is a variation on a method for making a “Duct Tape Double” dress form which was featured in an article in Threads magazine many years ago.  The instructions for the full dress form can be found at http://www.leanna,com/DuctTapeDouble/  From her site you can order the complete instructions, now in the third edition.  Leanna is also a fellow Belly Dancer. ****

Step Two: Making the Belt Pattern.  Now using your measurements prepare to make your belt pattern.  Subtract the hip bone to hip bone measurement from the exact hip measurement.  You will wind up one short and one long measurement.  This is done so any embellishments stay centered front or back even if you need to move your hooks eyes for weight gain or weight loss.  Once you have your design worked out, cut your pattern out of heavy paper — grocery bags work great.
    Cabaret Style:  When I make a Cabaret style belt I make it in two pieces.  The front piece sits between your hip bones and the back piece covers everything else.  I also prefer a style that has a point in the front and the back, because I feel V shapes are very slimming and feminine.  You can, of course, chose any style you want.  Points must be centered, hence the two part style belt.  I would not advise an asymmetrical belt until you have made several, because if it is not done well, it will look like your belt is simply on wrong. Add two inches extra to each side of the back piece (big piece) for attaching.  I also add a little bit of curve and cut outs for darts, because I know I will need them.  You can figure if you need them by cutting your pattern out of newsprint, tape it together and see if the point sticks out.  If it sticks out you will need to add darts.  If it does not fit close at the top you will need to add a bit of angle.
    Tribal Style:  Make a triangle shape using the larger measurement for your top measurement.  Then decide how far you want it to hang down.  This will be a Tassel style belt so when you figure depth consider the length of your tassels.  Your triangle will probably look like a squashed triangle, but that IS what you want.  Take the smaller measurement and cut two rectangles that measurement or longer for your ties.
    Tribal Fusion: Make two long rectangles, one the length of the big measurement and one the length of the short measurement.  Depending on your height the pieces should be 2 to 3 inches wide.  Once again add 2 inches to both sided of the longer piece for fastening.