Embellishing a costume, any costume, is a layering process.  You start with the covered base (which we did last issue) and layer on the embellishments.  I suggest that you gather the goodies that you want to put on your belt and lay them out on your belt.  Play with the different possible components, move them around on the belt form.  Stand back and look at them.  Look at the layout from across the room to see if it will show up from a stage.  Okay, you may be asking, “What is she talking about?”  Many costumers, new and experienced, get hung up on matching the colors.  If all of your components are the same color, it will look like just a block of color on stage.  All your hard work simply disappears with distance. 
   
Work with single layers as well as stacking things up on one another.  Stacking will be perfectly clear when we get to the Tribal Fusion belt.  Keep moving the components around until you get just the look you want.  At this point, draw a sketch or take a picture of what you want it to look like.  You may change your mind as you embellish, but this gives you a starting plan.
   
One more thing about layering your design, you can always add more later.  This is sort of a sneaky concept.  You can have a beautiful new costume to dance in now and then by adding one or more new layers have a new costume all over again.  I will add suggestions for more layers with each belt to give you the idea, as we discuss each belt style.


The beauty of Tribal Fusion itself is the fusing of two or more styles of dance together into one.  Thus your costume can also be the fusing of ideas.  In other words, anything goes!  Some items have become standard, but there are no hard and fast rules. 

Third Layer is Honey Beige Tassel Fringe type trim.  This trim adds a little extra bump to your hip movements and the color will also draw the eye to the movement.  Sew it right on top of the blue fringe (see photo).  Once again, end to end on the front piece and slightly wider on the back piece.  Make sure you have purchased enough of this trim, because it will also embellish the Bra.

Fourth Layer is a Shisha Mirror and Embroidery Trim which is multi-colored on black.  Sew this on top of the top edge of the tassel trim, in effect hiding all the other top edges — from a distance it will appear to be one very fancy trim on the bottom edge of your belt.  Sew this trim end to end on the front piece, just as before, but on the back piece also sew it end to end.  This creates a more tied together look.  Make sure to purchase enough, for this trim will also embellish the Bra.

Fifth Layer is a Blue & Gold Embroidered Trim sewn to the top edge of the belt form.  Sew this trim like the last one end to end on both pieces,  Make sure to purchase enough, for this trim will also embellish your Bra.

You are done!  Well except for putting on the hooks and lining it, but we will get to that later.  As you can see, it looks done.  But you could always add shells, coins, or jewelry later.  In fact, you could add all those items later — this IS Belly Dance.


Cabaret Style is all about sparkle and flash.  So you choose embellishments that will add to the color, sparkle, and flash of your performance.  You can embellish a costume with nothing but hand beaded designs, but it will come together faster if you use appliqués and prebeaded fringe.  Remember to have complementary appliqués and fringe for your Bra, so your costume looks ‘together’ and ‘complete’.

First Layer is the appliqués.  Choose sequin and beaded appliqués that will create an unique look.  The whole beauty of making your own costume is that you won’t see another like it.  I choose appliqués that would accent the V design.  My appliqués are Gold with silver and red for accent colors.  I set them at an angle for the V shape.  I also used longer appliqués for the back piece since it is bigger.  The same smaller appliqués that were used on the front piece, will be used on the Bra.  Sew them in place using matching thread, sew all the way through the belt form so they are very secure.

Second Layer is the prebeaded fringe.  I used 8” Gold high quality fringe.  Do not skimp on quality or your beads will not hold up to the centrifugal force of your hip movements.  Poor quality fringe will mean your beads are on the stage, not on your hips.  Start at the center of each belt form, sew the fringe to the edge (lay the top of the fringe on the belt and sew it to the belt through the form for strength) with bead or upholstery thread.  Glass beads are heavy, so they need strong thread to hold them.  Sew the fringe to just slightly beyond your appliqués.  By centering your fringe, you create a more slimming line.  Sew single row Gold Sequin Trim on top of the fringe edge to hide the ugly top edge.

Third Layer is extra beading and handmade fringe.  This is what sets your costume apart from the others.  I did a rope in silver around the top of the appliqué, a cover stitch in red sequins and beads, and red beaded fringe with red paillettes.  These added depth and texture to the design.
You are done!  Well except for hooks and eyes and lining, but we will cover all linings and closures all at once, later.  I might add some more hand beaded fringe with Paillettes to fill in the gap in between the appliqués.  I will decide, while I’m working on the bra.  If the bra needs more, then I will have to add more to the belt so they coordinate.


First Layer is of course Tassels!  I choose to do both single and double (2 on a single cord) tassels.  I am presuming that you know how to make a yarn tassels.  I use needlepoint wool yarn for my tassels, because I believe they bounce better.  I sew the tassel cords to the edge of the belt from the back side after it has been lined.

Second Layer is a unique wide trim that I decided to use as an embellishment.  I extended the trim to use as the ties too, even though I had cut out fabric for the ties.  I was going to put the trim on the ties, but it was too bulky.  If the ties are too bulky, you will not be able to get a tight knot.

Third Layer is Cowry Shell designs down by the bottom point.  The shell designs serve to add weight to hold the belt down for a good fit. Cowry Shells were used a lot by nomadic tribes for decoration, so you are adding a touch of realism too.  Use the two hole pre drilled shells.  They can be easily sewn on with a long beading needle and beading thread.  A flat bead was used in the middle to complete the flower motif.

The belt is lined with the same fabric, this finishes the belt and protects the stitches.  You are done!  You might want to add brass bells to the bottom tassel on the two tassel strands, the weight helps the tassels swing out more in spins.  I might also add embellishment to the waistband trim.  I will know when I see how the trim looks on the bra.